Jean Paul Gaultier is already the mad scientist, the mixer, the magician.
I have been sitting on my notes for the couture line up for over a week now, attempting to formulate my ideas in some kind of publishable way.
This collection, though my favorite, is hardest for me to talk about.
I imagine sacrificed virgins resurrected as ferocious and enchanted demigods.
Joan of Arc as a conquistador.
Pirates and pioneers and priestesses at play and at war.
Mythical warrior women, tribal goddesses.
See what I mean?
The references and touches here are all over the place and yet all point in the same direction.
This is so inventive and wild and wonderful. I’ve gone through these photos tens and tens of times.
As with Thimister’s collection, war, imperialism, and cultural conflict are referenced, but here there is less of a political bend. It is impossible to tell in any look from which side the warrior comes, or which references within a single look hold the real power.
Each outfit is a character, captures a mood, but the stirrings are so fun-loving, and fierce, and frenzied, and fabulous that I think analyzing too much or over-politicizing is to miss the point for JPG. Thimister shot at something (pun intended) that not many designers have been willing to do, I do not think that Gaultier wishes to stir up such direct and dirty feelings. This is fantasy and myth more than war and history. Illusion more than allusion.
And this is often true of fashion at its best. Which couture shows should be.
All images taken from Style.com.