Mon Dieu Dior

The inimitable Karlie Kloss in the opening look, all luxe plush purple, all royal huff in puff.

So last week I talked about the other haute couture shows for Fall 2010, and now I get to talk about Dior, the best (in my rarely humble opinion) of the coming season’s line up: John Galliano blows everyone else out of the water with the creativity, execution, breadth and fullness, detail and luxury, and grandeur of this collection. 1

Model Kassia Struss struts in a voluminous, textured, tactile look. I love the pale pastels against the winter white and the holly berry pop of a great red shoe.

First off, let’s talk about the mood, because florals and brights are ubiquitous here, and that’s just not something you see in Fall very often. If ever. However, beyond the gorgeous open-toed heels, these clothes are strangely season-appropriate. That is, the fabrics are lush and thick and heavy.

Can I have this? I love yellow, and this is beautiful. The assymetry is perfectly balanced and organically amorphous, like some fabulous fall orchid, like a phoenix.

But the colors! The bright blossoms! It’s cannily magical and movingly beautiful, like seeing flowers in the snow. Remember when I talked about wearing head to toe gray just to stand out against the crazy color wheel bloom that is Berkeley in spring? This is like that, in reverse, and a million times better.

I love how evocative these clothes are: of springtime renewal and blossoms, and of cozy cold-weather warmth. I love this dress, that pink is creamy perfection.

The styling is incredible, as well, and works with the overall look and mood of the whole show. The make-up is dramatic feminine.

So, so pretty. I want to see someone get married in this.

The easter basket cellophane veils are à propos odd but, again, totally work. Do I recommend a DIY? Well, no, I think wrapping one’s head in plastic is generally a bad idea. But styling in a runway show is maybe the only (on person) element where theatricality is allowed to trump wearability completely. According to me.

This whole show is that Big Reminder you need when the weather is hard and cold, whether literally or figuratively: Spring and beauty will bloom out of the barren darkness. Shabam!

And can we talk for a second about the gloves? Y’all know how much I am loving the jewel-toned, leather, opera-length gloves. This is just one more fabulous, fantastic iteration. Please, sir, can I have another?

Everyone understands your hips aren't actually that big, but they WILL think your waist is that tiny. Haha! I love the mad, dreseed-by-a-five-year-old colors here. Also? I take back what I said before, I want to see someone get married in THIS dress.

1. “Who gives a fuck about an oxford comma?” I do.

This is an iris, yes?
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Couture Countdown

Couture is a challenging thing. It may (or most likely) will never turn a profit. A piece may never even be worn again beyond the catwalk. However, couture is often instrumental to a brand’s identity. It’s more dedicatedly described as Art.

The term haute couture and what falls under that elite category is also confusing. As a descriptive term, and literally translated as “high tailoring,” haute couture is often synonymous with avant garde, fashion forward, one-of-a-kind, luxury, and/or high concept.

In France, HOWEVER, haute couture is a licensed term. For a fashion house to officially offer a haute couture line, they must be approved as such by la Fédération française de la couture, du prêt-à-porter des couturiers et des créateurs de mode. A mouthful, I know. They serve a similar role as the Académie française, only instead of defining and recording the French language, they’re defining and document expensive and awesome clothes. Sort of. I imagine the complexities are as confusing for us as the electoral college is to them. I digress.

This go-around, 10 designers put forth shows in Paris. This one’s always in Paris: Alexis Mabille, Anne Valérie Hash, Armani Privé, Chanel, Christian Dior, Elie Saab, Givenchy, Jean Paul Gaultier, Thimister, and Valentino.

This season’s line up spanned the spectrum between meh, mwah, and whah?!?!

I have compiled brief (but hopefully amusing) rundowns and reviews of each collection shown in Paris for Spring 20101 Couture Fashion, ordered by my personal preference, more or less, from HATE to LOVE, with all the muddled in between.

Enjoy.

    1. BTW, how insane is it that it’s freaking 2010? I know after a decade of the new millennium, we should be all “2010? SNORE!” But really, when I see it printed somewhere, I have to remind myself that I’m not grabbing a new read in the Science Fiction section of the library but am, in fact, reading today’s newspaper. As you (or if you) roll through the lineup, notice how many designers pick at a Space Odyssey/Scifi-esque vibe. Methinks I’m not the only one impressed by the sound of our new decade.